How To Level Out Concrete Pad
I have a concrete pad that was poured and I am placing 1000 gallon water tanks on it. However the last two feet of the pad slope approx. 2 inches down from the rest of the pad. I am wondering what the best way is to bring those last two feet up to level with the rest of the pad. without breaking off those last two feet and repouring. I do not care so much about the finish look as long as it is smooth enough not to puncture a 1000 gallon plastic tank when it is full of water.
I have been thinking of just making a soupy cement mix and pouring that on top of existing slab. Or using self leveling cement like what you would use in a kitchen. Just looking for a less expensive/easy way of fixing the problem while still being able to withstand the weight of the water tanks.
Thank you for any and all help with this.
My concern with the plywood is rot. It being part of a wellhouse and moisture all around all the time. I think the SLC would be expensive too as the run is about 15 feet long and 2 feet wide. I just wish they had poured the foundation correctly the first time.
Any other ideas or thoughts?? Put in a raised floor?
Roger, build your border with 1x pressure treated wood on the low sides. Rough-up the surface of the existing concrete. Drill some holes in the lowest spots and put rebar in the wholes, with enough of the rebar sticking out of the hole to hang on to the newly applied concrete, without protruding from the new level surface. Wet the existing concrete, then apply new concrete on the low area and level.
was it disclosed when you bought as an unpermitted addition?
That would be a recourse here in CA.
Does your homeowners include code update/correction coverage?
When did you buy the property?
3 months ago.
I have been down this route before. Generally if it was existing most cities will not make you tear it down unless it is a safety hazard.
That said, I would do your homework and take an attorney with you. Whenever I have done this myself I have always wished I had an attorney.
Find out from the neighbors how long this was in place and maybe you could "google earth it" if it was several years ago.
Good luck!
[addsig]
Yeah I talked to a lawyer today, hopefully i can get this mess taken care of shortly. Oh also just out of couriosity, was it legal for him to write me up just because he saw that stucco on one part of the house and not another, keep in mind the stucco had been done 4 days ago...
Acttually this is easy to solve. Go see the building department head and explain. In most cases they will tell you to get a plan drawn showing the addition and to get an engineer to stamp. As long as the addition is structurally sound the engineer will. You then pay the permit fee and viola.
I run into a lot of illegal additions and none of the homeowners have ever had to tear down the addition.
In your case you can prove you just bought the house so you should be fine.
Nrext time go to the building department and get a plan history for the property before you buy.
Thanks for the advice!! Will go see the dept. head tomorrow.
if you check the registers on the heating unit you will probably see rust inside them. the heated air is being cooled on the way from the furnace and therefore releasing the moisture into the room The hotter air is the more moisture it can carry, so as it cools it dumps it in the room.
1. insulate under the house
2. insulate the duct work
3. large dehumidifier in the house or put central h/a in the house.
if you do not fix this soon, you will have a mold problem also.
voice of experience.
[addsig]
Good advice donanddenise. Thank you.
Have any idea why there is a moisture problem in the summer months when the heat is not on? That is what has me perplexed.
You might consider if the crawl space has a dirt floor to put plastic sheeting down over it to keep moisture from rising up and rusting equipment and causing mildew and rot. You also need to make sure your gutters system is working and not dumping water around foundation or under facial board and into walls. All this moisture in the house will also allow termites to live regardless of treatments.
Thanks for the advice cycledog, I think there is plastic sheeting in the crawlspace, but I will have to check again. The back of the house does not have gutters on the side that has all the condensation.
D, Also the basement needs cross ventilation. Make sure the vents around the basement are open. Also check for roof leaks, and plumbing leaks, water and sewer. Make sure the ground water from driveways, walkways and ground landscaping flows water away from the house.
Thanks cycledog.
All the vents are open in the crawlspace. The house is built on a slope, when it rains the water erodes the soil on the sides of the house. How do I tell if ground water flows away from walkways and driveways?
One thing I forgot to mention, the dryers vent into the crawlspace. Can this add to the problem?
Quote:
On 2007-04-19 21:34, cycledog wrote:
D, Also the basement needs cross ventilation. Make sure the vents around the basement are open. Also check for roof leaks, and plumbing leaks, water and sewer. Make sure the ground water from driveways, walkways and ground landscaping flows water away from the house.
[ Edited by d_random on Date 04/20/2007 ]
right on Chirs,
if the dryer vent to the crawl space you must reroute it to the outside, it would happen mostly in summer because the humidity in the crawl space is higher and the moist, warm air just makes it worse. cross ventilation is a must,
great advice.
D, You might want to get a good landscapers advice on the erosion of the foundation soil. Remedies might include french drains, swells, ext.
The Idea is to keep the water running away from the house and not causing mold, mildew, wood rote, termites, ext.
THANK YOU!!
Awesome input from everyone! This forum is such a huge help! THANKS!
Thank you for all the follow-up replies cycledog, great advice! [ Edited by d_random on Date 04/23/2007 ]
My suggestion for the lenders is using private equity or hard money. You will run into problems buying and selling as your primary and then with the short terms you do each loan for. Both mtg brokers and the lenders dont like people using long term financing for short term usages. The mtg broker loses the yield spread he will make on the loan if its payed off early and the lender rep will look bad too. Once any lender notices this on your credit after a few loans they will hit you with hard prepays( sell/refi wll be penalized 6 months interest payments) on everything after that. Plus as soon as each new loan shows on your credit it will go down somewhat. At a 640 you are not in the best position as far as credit is concerned already. So my suggesstion to beat the credit issues and buy all you want is definately private money or hard money. With your expeerience I would try to find a money partner locally,a nd you give them either a return on their credit line they give you or a percent of each profit. Look for somebody witha self direct IRA and give them 10% return on the money they lend you. That would be ideal.
So my suggestion for your plan is to go hard money or lease option if possible. Rehab, live in (which dring rehab is rough - I did and wont ever do it again -) Also I wouldnt hire students. Youll save money with good expereinced day laborers. High school kids have other focuses and youll find they will split on you most times. Plus you dont have to deal with parents when you have worker issues.
Thats my 2 cents.
Ypo,
Thanks for the response.
Does anyone else have information on this topic to share?
Thanks,
JS.
I lived in one for a number of years very happily! No problems and it was better built than what we have today.
Have a home inspector look the property over for the things that Chris mentioned and anything else that might pop up.
Frame is much easier to fix than un reinforced brick.
I would treat this like any other home and do your due dilligence.
[addsig]
I live in one now, and it is great. Many people love the look of old houses. It is also easy to work with and move things around such as bathrooms. The wood they used back then is much better than the wood used today. You will have to paint more often so many people do not advise that you keep wood frames for rentals. Just do your due deligence and if you are not used to them, get a professional inspection.
We purchased a few months back 2 houses where one was 72 years and another 106. But fully wood framed.
Neither had termites and the structure and foundations were solid.
Another house we got was less than 20 years old and full of termites. That one was mostlyy block so we did not do a termite inspection - unfortunately. If termites are a concern get an inspection first. They only cost between $75 and $150 depending ont he size of the house.
Do your homework on lead base paint. The sanding and scraping caused dust to be breathed. they say this is a bad thing, maybe causes brain damage etc.