Updating old wood trim?????
Have a house that was built in 1978 that need some updating. It has the old dark wood trim around the floors and on all the door frames. I'd like to turn them white. It is easy enough just to hit'em lightly with a fine grit sandpaper and then paint?
Also, I'm assuming it would be easier just to buy new doors, closet doors, etc rather than paint them as well? I've had mixed opions on the white paint for trim. Some say go with a flat others say glossy. I'd like to use something that will easily match the doors. What do you think is the best plan of action.
Thanks-----Jim
Hey tj,
You will need to lightly sand the trim in order to get the paint to bond to same.
I typically use an acrylic latex, semi-gloss
or satin.
I do not use flat on trim, it's hard to clean
no matter what the manufacturer says.
From time to time I have left my doors stained just paint the trim work.....and vice versa. It actually turns out nice.
I would go with a good quality paint that has good covering / hiding ability.
I know of a fellow builder that will buy the cheapest paint available and end up putting on 3 coats.....I spend a few more dollars and put on one coat..........save more money in time and labor.
good luck
I assume from your post that the wood trim is stained and then has a clear sealer over the top. Is this correct? If yes, then a very light sanding to scuff the surface followed by a good primer before final coat is in order. Use a primer like "Kilz". It will seal the surface and let you get away with a single topcoat of paint (if you're lucky).
DON'T skip the primer or you'll wind up using four coats to cover and you'll have lousy adhesion to the trim that will peel and chip off easily. Believe me I've been there. A counsultation at the local paint store would be a good idea. You only want to do this once!
P.S. Good surface prep is critical. Don't forget to wash the surface with TSP or similar cleaner. Ask the guys at the paint store what to do.
Hey Everyone--
Thanks for your guidance. Hope everyone had a great holiday weekend.
Jim
Have you considered just buying new trim. Home Depot/Lowe's have prepainted trim, simply cut to length and attach. If you have the rooms premeasured they may even cut them for you (Careful measurements here, because you can't return the item for a poor cut).
It probably won't cost you much more $$$ , if any, than all the stuff you'll need to repaint the existing trim. And it's going to be alot quicker and easier.
Roger
Raj--
Actually I haven't. The thing that concerns me about just replacing everything is all the door frames. Guess I could just do the door frames myself and then have someone do the trim. That sounds like a good idea.
Thanks for the advice.
Hey,
Based on the question, I am not sure if you are painting the entire room or only the trim, so this may not help.
But if the whole room needs updating here is what I would: sand the trim and doors and then SPRAY on the primer and paint. The overspray is covered when I paint the walls. You can pull the carpet up and put it back or maybe you are having new carpet put in.
I have been experimenting with spraycans instead of the old Wagner, as there is no clean up time.
Just a thought.
Bruce--
Sounds like a good idea. This is what I was thinking after looking at everyone's suggestions. The floors are hardwoods and are in bad shape. I think I'll tear off all the baseboard trim and corner round (they have been sprayed with pet urine). I'll then put new baseboard trim in which shouldn't take too long. Then I'll buy a sprayer and spray everything (floors-urine, walls, door frames, and ceilings with Kilz and then paint. I think this would be most efficient in time and price.
Have an suggestions on a sprayer? I'm not looking for commercial grade--just something that will put a decent coat of paint on small applications.
Thanks a bunch--Jim
I would buy a middle of the line Wagner (sorry I can't find the model number). It has about a million little attachment you can buy, so it is very versitile machine. Get the one that comes with the feed from the gallon can and you are ready for action.
If you are replacing everything, definitely get the preprimed trim (someone else mentioned it is also).
Bruce--
It is so funny you say that. I spent about 2 hours last night making a "strategy" with the paint dept. on how to get this house into shape. The manager recommended a particular Wagner that she has used 100's of time flawlessly. So guess what-----it's in my truck now. You're right-the preprimed trim sounds like the best way to go.
I think I'll spray all the doors, door frames, and base trim and then tape them all off and finish the walls and ceiling.
Thanks again--Jim
I've been remodeling houses professionally for 13 yrs and have tried dozens of approaches. If you are painting the entire room, here's my approach:
1. Prep. Sand woodwork. Very critical and sometimes more than just light sanding. If you can see glossy spots, sand them. Then clean everything.
2. Rent a good airless from a paint store. (not Sherwin Williams or Home Depot type stores). They can help you with the correct tip size and fan size (very crucial to not going crazy). Spray the entire room with Zinser Cover Stain oil base primer. (Or Bin 123 primer) It is the only primer that I am aware of that can act as a topcoat, too. So, in one shot you have a topcoat on the ceilings and closets. And, you have primed everything, including trim. Take the doors off and lean them against a wall. (Or, carry a brush with you to catch the inevitable drips around the door jambs if you leave them hung.) It has stain sealing abilities like Kilz, but doesn't smell as strong.
3. If you don't like the finish on the ceilings, you can spray the ceilings with a flat latex white. I can prime everthing and spray the ceilings of a 2000 sf house in something like 3 hrs, including cleanup. Amazing.
4. Then, spray the topcoat on all the trim. Semigloss works and looks great. The airless works best. Your small Wagner sprayer may leave a "eggshell" look on the trim paint if you spray a latex. It will look ok with an oil paint, but then you have a problem with the overspray being oil. Latex is easier. Spraying is an art. Find the right guru at a top paint store. They can show you how to thin the paint to the right amount for spraying trim.
Wipe the overspray with a dry brush or rag while it is still wet to degloss it.
4. Cut in and roll the walls by hand. Mask off the baseboard only.
***Clean everything really well before you spray at all. Spraying kicks up a lot of air which spreads dust around. Vaccum under the baseboard, top of windows, etc.
Good luck[ Edited by Julieann on Date 05/31/2003 ]
Yes Even I will throw a couple of cents into this one.. One thing that was mentioned previously to this is Surface preperation... I don't care what you use to finish coat anything you paint, but PLEASE do proper surface preperation... This includes sanding and yes it does suck to do that.. Especially if there is alot of paint or it is very heavy... But this is a critical step in the process.. Once you have sanded it and made sure the surface will accept what you put onto it. please MAKE SURE that you use a TOP QUALITY primer.. That top quality primer will save you many many headaches in the end...
One thing, if the house has good expensive hardwood trim, you could always take it off and strip it.. but most people don't want to do that much work in a rehab... But it does look good when you do it correctly...
Now if you don't really care about the trim and want to do the woodworking thing, you can always take the trim off and replace it.. Honestly this is an easy way to Update some older homes because it may have an older style of trim... I honestly won't recommend pre-primed trim or plain ole' trim.. that is a personal preference and alot of times it comes down to a matter of money.. Don't forget pre-primed trim is more expensive than regular trim... To get the same effect, take your new natural trim, pre-prime it yourself in the garage on sawhorses.. easy access, makes the work go easier..
I know how much can one write on this subject.. LOL.. it is a matter of personal preference... Try it several ways and choose which method works best for you...
Good Luck and good Rehabbing...
Julieann and vmginc--
Thank you so much for your advice. You both have really put me on the right track.
Julie--HD also recommended the Bin 123 primer and said it can be tinted to closer match the paint. You are saying that this is the primer that also can be a topcoat for the ceilings and closets?
Now the big question is the existing trim, doors, frames, etc----the lady at HD claims she never sands before applying the Bin 123----just cleans it. She claims the attaches to the trim great. Now althought I know that sanding is "ideal" have you had any trouble when not sanding and using the Bin?
Thanks again--Jim
There's an expression my painter uses about doing things right the first time, "it's cheap insurance". I don't believe I have EVER painted wood trim that I didn't sand first.
Bin 123 is not technically suited for a topcoat, but I've done it several times. Depends. It dries a kind of funny white with a slight sheen to it
The choice between Bin 123 and Zinser Cover Stain is mostly about:
1. How much stain sealing you need? And, how much of a potential adhesion problem you might have?
2. Whether you want to bite the bullet and topcoat the ceilings and closets.
I don't like to worry about either of the two things in item 1 above, so I have taken to just using the Cover Stain (oil base). It solves all the problems.
Also, really try to find a good paint store. Someone that sells paints like: Coronado, Benjamin Moore, BLP...
That's the place to hang out and take advice. I cannot tell you how many times I've been at HD and overhear the employees dispensing very bad advice!