Doors and Windows
Doors
Most of the problems I come across when inspecting a home can easily be fixed with a good quality tube of caulking. Sticking doors can usually be fixed with replacing the typical ½ inch screw in the center hole of the hinge with a 3” screw to bring the door back in line or at times adding spacer behind the hinge to bring a door out, seldom does one need to plane the door down. There are also plenty of types of weather stripping that can replace the deteriorated ones if drafting is a problem.
For those that are rehabbing or remodeling, if you are thinking about replacing a door, then you need to be aware that door sizes differ greatly. It is best to measure the door opening and then contact your local hardware store about what they have available.
Typically doors end up being replaced with the same type, metal with metal, wood with wood, although I have come across a few instances where I was able to use a fiberglass door to replace a wood door. I would advise that if you are replacing the door then have them pre-drill the door knob and dead bolt holes for you, it’s worth the extra money and time. Let me also make a comment on dead bolts and safety. There are two types of dead bolts; Double cylinder- keyed both sides and Single cylinder – key one side, turn latch on the other side.
I do not recommend the double cylinder dead bolts for no other reason then the case of a fire, imagine someone drying to open a door in a smoke filled room.
Locks serve the purpose in keeping your neighbors honest and at best to slow a criminal down in time for you to call the police or retrieve your firearm. As a former police officer I can tell you for fact that there is not a lock on the market that is full proof. If Joe Scumbag wants to break into your home, he is coming in. There are simple things that can be done to make your house less desirable for him. Leave porch and night lights on around the perimeter. Put various rooms on timers at odd hours of the morning and night. Get rid of those gaudy shrubs where a person could hide.
You can install a security system however the best alarm system as noted by current and former criminals,…….is a dog. It doesn’t have to be big dog, just one with good hearing and can bark. Enough advertising for my four legged friends, lets get back to doors and windows.
As for door choices, I personally love fiberglass doors. You can paint and stain them easily. They hold up far better than the metal and wood doors and are available in a wide range of sizes and styles. Metal doors are the cheapest, followed by fiberglass and then wood.
Door styles that do not afford a good view outside should have peep holes installed. Doors that separate the house from a garage should be fire rated.
Know lets talk about those cracks on the wall around the door. Do those cracks mean there is a foundation problem? Usually it’s just the house breathing, settling, or moving. My rule of thumb is if the crack is less than 1/16” wide then I am not concerned with it, however if it is wider and the crack lines runs more than 6 inches I start investigating.
I start by determining if any roof loads are coming down on the area where the cracks are occurring and then follow it down to the foundation. I hate to say it but most building inspectors do not look at where all the point loads are on a house. They often look for the most reoccurring violations and then go onto the next jobsite. Most of the time I find that the problem has to do with a pier not being added for a load point. In the latter case it is not a difficult repair. When in doubt then consult with a licensed professional.
For cracks that are just cosmetic, they can be repaired by applying a fiberglass mesh tape on the crack and feathering out drywall compound over same, typically 3 coats will do. Simply filling the crack with caulk or paint is a quick fix for the cheap rehabbers that are looking at flipping it in a few weeks (smile), however the crack will often come back before the ink is dry on the contract.
Windows
Doors and windows are one the main areas where you experience heat / air loss.
Older homes typically have single pane windows. Some people will add the storm windows on the outside but they offer no added insulated value.
Since the 1970’s, window manufactures have attempted to stop heat and air loss by making double and even triple pain windows, Windows are rated by their U value. The U-value is a measure of the amount of heat that flows through the window. The lower the U-value, the less heat that will be lost through the window, U-values of 0.4 or lower are best. Many window manufacturers are also offering “Low E” windows as well as windows filled with various gases such as Argon and Krypton.
A low-E coating is a microscopically thin metal or metallic oxide coating that is applied to the glass by the manufacturer. It helps keep heat and ultraviolet rays from passing through the window. Virtually invisible, low-E coatings will keep the house warmer in winter by reducing heat loss and cooler in summer by blocking heat from the sun. There have been new studies on the effectiveness of Low E, some cases state that it is an unnecessary option in colder climates, other studies have shown that depending on which brand of Low E you buy, could actually be no better than your basic insulated window.
Recently I bought an older all brick home (1940’s) where there was no insulation in the walls. Due to the way the walls were built, diagonal bracing and fire blocking, it would not be cost effective for me to attempt to insulate the exterior walls. Since I needed to replace the windows anyway, I decided to buy the gas (Argon) filled windows. The gas helps maintain room temperature against the inside pane of the window.
Windows should be caulked, both inside as well as outside. Condensation between the panes of a window is an indication that the seal is broken, the insulated value of the window is no longer effective and the sash should be replaced.
I would advise when shopping for windows to contact siding suppliers directly to see what they offer. There is a tremendous mark up for replacement windows, do not get caught up in the national advertising hype of some of the larger window companies. I have had prices in the range of $400.00 - $700.00 per unit. My siding contractor was able to install a lifetime warranted, double hung, gas filled window for $250.00 per unit, this included wrapping the outside of the existing casing…………………….again, shop around.
very informative and useful. thanks!
Great Article as usual.
So if we have a handyman that does most of the work for us. He has said that he could do the siding if we wanted him to, where do you think he should get the windows at??
I figured that a window purchased at Lowes or Home Depot and installed by a handyman would cost less then $200 per window.
Actually, the windows were $100 from HD and found somebody to install them for $50/w
But on these units that I plan on fixing up or selling:
http://www.thecreativeinvestor.com/Property2188.html
one person suggested that I remove some windows and just put in one window per room. On most of these units there are two windows on the corner of house and for long term maintenance purposes that might be the way to go?
What do you think??
I have accounts opened up with various siding and window suppliers,.....Ted Lansing, Lyf-Tym, UVS etc....however I let my siding contractor, a true christian that walks the talk, get his supplies from Lyf-Tym.
What he charges me for the window is the same price that I can get them for......so I let him deal with the paper work.
The problem I have with Lowes and Home Depot (and dont get me wrong I am addicted to both of those stores) is that there product line can change frequently. They are nothing more then a middle man for a vendor. When problems arise with stores like that.......and I have had a few......it seems like forever and a day to get it resolved.
I get my tools and some hardware items from those stores but that is it. Even with the tools it is a hassle. I have gone through 5 Paslode guns.......I end up contacting the manufacturer when all is said and done.
My vote for windows is one of the local suppliers that I mentioned. If there is a problem I feel they are more responsive because of there local ties and reputation to the community.........plus no middle man / vendor to deal with.........and you can get expert advice.....vendors at HD and Lowes are delivery boys.
In regards to any handyman......make sure that he is familiar with installing whatever window you get, according to the manufactures installation guide. I love handymen because of their desire and ability to be a jack of all trades......the other side of the coin is that they often can take short cuts to make up for underbidding a job or just getting frustrated with manufactures instructions. (laugh)
I always found it odd to see various types of windows (jalousy, single pane, double pane here an there.......like having two differnt brand of gym shoes on.....lol) on older homes. It made me feel that only the bare minimum was done to keep the house maintained. You could almost hear the sucking sound of money going out of the house because of lack of maintenence. I do believe in the old saying........."you can pay me now.....or pay me later"......usually later cost more.
Even when the tenant is paying the utilities.......I would still replace all the windows. I would advise them that I am slightly going up on rent, however their heating and cooling bill should be lower..........they are getting a better insulated dwelling and you are maintaining the dwelling with additional cash flow that will not only pay for the windows but eventually increase your positive cash flow after the windows are paid for......
NC
PS. Ted Lansing and Lfy_Tym are major siding suppliers as well as providing different lines of replacement windows..........you may want to look at having them qoute prices for both the siding and window supplies.
So you think hiring a siding company rather then a handyman is the best way to go, huh? Do you know of any in the Burlington, NC area??
Thanks for all your help NC.
This article and the one on common home inspection problems were "right on the money" and to the point. Useful and valuable info. Always appreciated that with a home inspector. Thanks from another "NC".
I have emailed you privately about my sub.....let me know if you have any questions.......
NC